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| The beloved Doctor Simi, mascot of Mexico's favorite discount pharmacy |
I'm fine, but instead of doing errands which included paying the phone bill --which must be done in person, because what the third world lacks in infrastructure they more than make up for in pointless lines-- Hot Latin Boy delivered me straight home.
I had my traditional Monday night dinner of a baked apple with oats, some pecans, a bit of milky tea and a handful of painkillers I bought from a guy in a giant foam head and promptly fell asleep, bill unpaid.
When I went to check my email a mere six hours later, we had been put on the telephonic naughty step. I guess that's why Carlos Slim -- who controls more than 90% of all phone and internet service in Mexico-- is the richest man in the world.
One of the most frustrating aspects of Mexican life is it's so damn hard to get ahead and so damn easy to fall behind. Once you're behind, it's next to impossible to get caught up.
While services (excluding utilities, of course) are relatively cheap here, everything else is expensive and the salaries are embarrassingly low. Sure it's a cultural thing for young people to live with their families, and a household is rarely just a couple or a couple and a child. But maybe it's cultural because most people can't afford to live by themselves, even with a white collar job and a diploma on the wall.
Everyone works, no one gets ahead.
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| A typical neighborhood in the outskirts of Tijuana, where HLB grew up. Photo courtesy of flickr |
I've taken advantage of my good luck (are you reading Amid Privilege? You should, for a variety of reasons.) but even what I've legitimately earned has been earned standing on the shoulders of generations of privilege in very expensive shoes.
I can sit in my ivory tower --which is actually a leaky cottage, but a very swank leaky cottage-- and make observations without having to experience what it's like to have to sleep five to a bed because there's one mattress and no heat.
So I consider myself doubly privileged: To see what's beyond my historic front door for the first time in my life and to be lucky enough to avoid it.
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| Zizou, Xabi and Mou. Not pictured: my underpants |
In fact I might require a second mattress, just for safety because it's all fun and games until someone gets a concussion.
That's all I've got for today. No shoes or babies in cellophane.
I'm all gimpy and a little maudlin (although my tomatoes are looking fabulous, so I've got that going for me, which is nice) but if you've ever wondered why someone would be willing to risk their lives, spend thousands of dollars in a country where a day's pay barely buys a gallon of milk, to be shoved into some suffocating secret compartment or led through the mountains for days drinking water from puddles just to have the chance to work in the United States, that's why.
Also you can pay your phone bill online.



I remember the joys of standing in line to pay my phone bill. And my heating bill. And needing to deal with three separate people to buy an ice cream cone or a pencil - one to take the order and write it down, another to look at the order, charge me and give me a receipt, and the third to give me the cone.
ReplyDeleteI was a Peace Corps volunteer in Chile. There were lines for everything. I learned pretty quickly to carry a book with me everywhere I went.
That sounds about right. I happily let HLB take care of all the standing in line and things like that. I just made sure I knew *how* to do it if I ever needed to, and then handed the reins over to him.
DeleteHow did you like Chile? I'm very intrigued by the country and have heard wonderful things.
I really liked Chile. It's beautiful and has really good produce and fish. I ate very well during my two years there.
DeleteBut I understand the work hard and not get anywhere part. I worked with women who were (literally) dirt poor. They were not poor because they didn't work. They worked their butts off. But the structure of the country - social, educational - did not permit mobility.
A cab driver in Morocco told me, "I know what the US is like. Here, you work hard and you get nothing. There, you work hard and you get to keep your money."
This is the kind of stuff that you can read about and nod your head to but not really understand (or be prepared for) until you actually experience it. I knew what I was going to see when I went to India for the first time and I knew I was not prepared to see it (but that did help maintain my composure in some trying situations). We stayed with my middle class in-laws in a crumbling Soviet-era housing development, where the water runs for about 1 hour a day (when it runs). My husband's parents and grown sister shared a tiny bedroom to make room for us to have some privacy while sleeping. I told my husband later that it kinda felt like camping (oh the mosquitos...), but it was really important for me to see it to understand what they have and where he grew up.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I think it's too bad the Peace Corps gets a bad rap in the midwest where I grew up, people need to get out more.
"I knew what I was going to see and I knew I was not prepared to see it."
DeletePerfectly said. HLB and I are so similar in so many ways, it's easy to forget what different backgrounds we have. I'm from the stupidly lucky 1% and he's from a third world barrio where paved streets are pipe dreams but kidnappings are regular events.
Why does the Peace Corps get a bad rap in the midwest? I only know a few people who've joined, but it's always been pretty well respected where I've lived.
I was wondering the same. I'm from the South and people might think you are crazy for joining the Peace Corps, but there are plenty of churchy type folk who value a life of service (every other person has a cousin who's a missionary) and at least respect the impulse.
DeleteRight? And even though I'm a person of faith, I'd still rather join the Peace Corps than be a missionary. What really gets me are the "missionary trips" to places like Puerto Vallarta where it's five hours of picking up trash on the beach and ten days of frolicking on the beach with umbrella drinks.
DeleteWell good, maybe that bit about the Peace Corps isn't as wide spread as I thought. Where I grew up (Indiana), the locals generally thought of the Peace Corps folks as a bunch of unwashed hippies who are just trying to avoid getting a haircut and a real job. And I think the church folks thought they were a bunch of heathens...or at least not doing legitimate work.
DeleteWhich is obviously a load of bull. I had some fun times with hippies in college, and the former Peace Corp folks that I know now are well-traveled, pragmatic folks with great stories....and not at all like hippies.
Well. There are some Peace Corps hippies. I have a friend who was a volunteer in Chad and his roommate spent two years getting high on nutmeg. B
Deleteut the Chile program was pretty professional: we had city managers, business people, and environmental educators. All of us worked at a pretty high level. There was nobody who had no work experience at all.
Well I thank you repeatedly for the nod in my direction. As in, thank you, thank you, thank you.
ReplyDeleteAnd I agree with you all the way.
One of the reasons I decided to move back to Spain is because the country has finally caught up in terms of not having to stand in quite so many lines. (I had plenty of practice in that when I lived here from 85-91. Though it would be more accurate perhaps to say that we stood in bunches. Which devolved into scrums when the bus arrived or the civil servant appeared in the ventanilla.) That and the public transit actually working.
ReplyDeleteThere's still a long way to go in terms of customer service, which is especially bad in telecomm -- think Ma Bell in the 70s -- and we've got a new crop of old-fangled pols who are busily undoing as many of the things that make life bearable as they can. What can you say about a party that doesn't appear to set much store by public health, public education, or any other sort of public policy?
Still, it's home.
Oh, and why is there a picture of my boyfriend on your blog? I thought we'd talked about that.
ReplyDeleteI spent the last couple years living in China and lines are a way of life, a horrible way of life. We had to go to the corner and buy phone cards, about 15 bucks for 100 minutes. But the rates were so cheap it was unbelievable. I remember riding the trains and all the Chinese bought standing tickets and would on the floor outside the smelly toilets playing on their cell phones.
ReplyDeleteI've been in Mexico City working for the past ten days, and I wasn't expecting to see quite so much distinction between the classes, but it really is blatant and obvious and everyone knows it. Even in this short amount of time I've been able to see how the ways in which this city opens itself up--but only to people who have money.
ReplyDelete